Most of us use skin care products to support and promote the health and appearance of our skin. And with cosmetics, the intention is to improve what we think of our aesthetics in one way or another (not to mention the fact that playing with makeup looks can be an old pleasure and an explosion of ‘Mood.) So, you would probably not want to use a product that would make you break with acne, right? This is where the concept of comedogenicity and non -comedogenic products comes into play.
To decompose what the word “comedogen” means, consider that comedones are bumps caused by obstructed pores. An open comedy, which is a single comedone, is a black point, and a closed comedy is a white point. “The” comedo “is the main lesion of acne, and” genique “means to do“Explains the certified dermatologist Chris Adigun, MD, FAAD. “So” comedogen “essentially means acne. “On the other hand, a non -comedogenic ingredient should not obstruct your pores.
But, the classification of products as comedogenic or non -comedogenic is not so simple. There are a variety of skin types, not all products will affect the skin of the same person in the same way, and how comedogenicity is tested is not regulated. But you are not without guidance. Here, the pros – including dermatologists and a cosmetic chemist – have destroyed what you need to know in your pursuit to avoid eruptions and give advice to choose the best products for your skin.
“The term” comedogen “refers to the tendency of a substance to cause comedors, which are small bumps of skin color – white dots or blackheads – used by obstructed pores”, explains the certified dermatologist administration, Robert Anolik, md. “Comedogenic products can exacerbate acne by blocking pores, leading to more thrusts.” This is particularly true for people who have oily skin or otherwise subject to acne, he adds
But “can exacerbate acne” does not mean crucially “will”. Like Shereene Idriss, MD, a certified dermatologist in New York, said: “It is not because an ingredient is comedogenic that it is comedogen in a product. In the end, the dose makes the poison. »»
Think of Cold Brew Concentrate: it is designed to be diluted in a certain amount of water before pouring a drink and drinking. But if you do not dilute it first, your drink will be much stronger and you will be subjected to more intense effects of caffeine consumption. Similarly, the power of a comedogenic ingredient in an aesthetic or skin care product has to do with its concentration in the formulation, how comedogenic the ingredient is (later on the comedogenicity scale from 0 to 5), and the overall mixture or product emulsion.
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“Even if you use ingredients that are comedogenic by themselves, once they are in an emulsion, they can adopt different properties and the final formula may not be comedogenic,” explains the cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline. Thus, while certain ingredients can be comedogenic in its own right and at certain concentrations – such as coconut oil, algae extract and lanoline – just because they appear somewhere on the list of ingredients in your product does not mean that you are sentenced to a break.
In addition, even if an ingredient is comogenetic, you might not break out after using it, but that does not mean that your best friend would necessarily be clear with you. “All the skin is not created equally,” says Dr Idriss. “Your skin chemistry plays a role in determining the comedogenicity of an ingredient (as it applies to your skin).”
Just to be clear from the jump, the tests on comedogenicity are both limited and imperfect – it’s a bit like the Far West of Beauty. The Federal Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate test practices, and there is no mandate to test comedogenicity. Thus, as is the case with the vitamin industry and unregulated supplements in the United States – you should probably not take proclamations on a non -comedogenic product like the Gospel.
By leaving this warning, there is an increasing set of research on comedogenicity in which various companies and brands opt with their test tests. (However, once again, the tests themselves are not standardized, so the results are not either.)
Early tests in the 1970s and in the early 1980s were largely carried out on rabbit ears, where the comedogenicity scale from 0 to 5 was born. In light of a certain number of problems – namely an intentional distance from animal tests, and the reality that rabbit and human skin are not identical – there has been a turn towards test tests for testing human.
Rabbit earplace tests (SEF) constituted the first form of comedogenicity test. Scientists “apply the ingredient to the rabbit ear and then see if comedones have formed (over time),” explains Koestline. “It would tell us if something is comedogenic or not.”
In addition to a distance from animal tests for ethical reasons, the introduction of human skin tests for comedogenicity was welcome because the skin of rabbit ear and the skin of the human face are not the same.
The first human tests revealed that rabbit’s ears were more sensitive than human skin. The substances deemed weakly comedogenic on the basis of the results of rabbit tests did not necessarily lead comdones on man. The meaning, the results of rabbit studies do not always reflect a human reaction of trust.
Human skin tests are not perfect either, largely for the same reasons for lacking regulation and normalization of tests. In addition, tests are generally not done on the skin of the face. “The tests are done on the back, not on the face,” says Koestline. “There are clearly limits (with rabbit ears, because) the rabbit ear skin is not comparable to human facial skin. The skin on your back is also different from the skin of your face. »»
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First of all, Dr. Idriss warns against the throwing all the products of your makeup bag and your bathroom cabinet for the comedogenicity. “If you use a product and it works well for yourself, don’t cut it simply because the ingredients are comedogenic,” she said.
An awareness of certain common comedogenic ingredients is useful for reading products of products that irritate you, but it is also important to pay attention to the place where a given substance lives on the list. “If you are bursting and you do not know why, the identification of products in your routine with comedogenic ingredients that are at the top of the ingredient list is a good starting point,” explains Dr. Idriss. “The ingredients beyond the first five on the list are not significant.”
Since Dr. Idriss says that a large number of ingredients are not comedogenic, it may be more useful to know which ingredients are more likely to plug pores and avoid them. However, “common non -comedogenic ingredients include hyaluronic acid and glycerin,” said Dr. Anolik. “These ingredients are less likely to plug pores and can be beneficial to maintain clear skin.”
He adds that the search for labels on products can be useful panels: in addition to clear “non-comedogenic” stamps, some products may also include designations such as “do not clog pores” or “oil without”, said- he.
“The comedogenic ratings vary from 0 to 5, 0 being non -comedogenic and 5 being very comedogenic,” explains Dr Anolik. “However, these notes are not absolute and can vary depending on individual skin types. A product with a note of 2 could be safe for a person but cause eruptions in another. So use it as a guide. »»
Dr. Idriss agrees: “Notes are not a representation of real world experiences; Do not let them be a major factor in the selection of good products for your skin. As always, the test patch first and if it works for you, it works. »»
If you know that you are subject to acne or you have oily skin, and you do not know how to buy skin care and cosmetic products that will keep irritation from a distance, it’s always a good Idea to consult your dermatologist.
Dr. Adigun says that she has an impression of products that she generally recommends that patients who find it difficult to find options that work for them. Any dermatologist should be able to provide personalized advice to help you navigate the beauty aisle (note the tips if your supplier does not give you its own sheet).
Doing a homemade home version of Patch Testing is another safe bet to protect you from irritation. To do so, the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD) recommends applying the product twice a day for seven to 10 days to a quarter size of your body. (AAD suggests that the turn of your elbow or under your arm, but everywhere, it does not disintegrate.) If you develop a rash or a reaction, wash the product and stop using it. If you are clear after the test window, you can use the product with confidence in your routine – without what is or not comedogenic ingredients in the formulation.
Unfortunately for those of us who feel the most implemented to success when they are armed with a defined set of directives to follow, comedogenicity is not so clear. In addition to the unregulated and uncontrolled test process, the ingredients themselves will affect all people differently.
“Skin care is very individual,” says Dr. Anolik. “What works for a person may not work for another. It is essential to listen to your skin and adjust your routine if necessary. Consultation with a dermatologist can provide personalized advice and help you find the best products for your skin type. “”
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