The main trend in spring 2025 is the ruffles on everything

I can’t identify exactly when and where it struck me, but once I saw it, I started to notice it everywhere: everything has a steering wheel now.

From the “What’s new” section to Bergdorf to the last drop of mango, you have trouble finding a top that has no windy flair or a Gabey -layer dress. The “when” and “where” of this trend can be misty, but the genesis is clear.

In February 2024, Chemena Kamali presented her first collection as a creative director of Chloé. It was a return home for the German designer, who started his career at the French fashion house under Phoebe Philo in the late 2000s and returned to it as Director of Design during the mandate of Claire Waight Keller. His intimate knowledge of the brand, its inheritance and its influence was clearly clearly clearly in its inaugural program – one of the strongest and most discussed beginnings in recent memory.

From the door, Kamali has established a clear aesthetic: cascade sleeves on dresses and highs, transparent tulle layers, delicate lace associated with denim or strong leather, and many, many ruffles. In the later collections and the moments of red carpet of celebrities, Chloé continued to build the look, which is confident, feminine and with confidence. He is also very familiar – Reminiscent of ’00s Glastonbury It Girl Street Style and city center shots. Everything it took to Sienna Miller seated in the front row during the first Kamali show to confirm it: Boho Chic was, in fact, therefore back.

As we know, timing is everything. And recently, we have seen how a singular brand can dictate the wider fashion landscape. A few years ago, we were overwhelmed by the resurgence of mini skirts – isolation on the mini – to the wake of the spring 2022 collection from Miu Miu, which has become an instant street style of street style and an internet phenomenon. You can trace a lot of recent trends, everything, well worn moccasins with stuck polo shirts with dazzled underwear like pants, in Miuccia Prada, which has been part of the fashionable tables for decades. This Miu Miu moment feels particularly pronounced when, as many have already pointed out, everything looks alike.

More broadly, Miu Miu solidified the return of Y2K to fashion. Once this cycle has come and came, we instinctively passed to what will follow, the trend and time: the Boho-Meet-Indie-Sheze from the mid-2000. This prepared the ground in Chloé to take the coat of the mono-brand control. What we see now is the fashion chloe-fication, if you want.

Of course, the ruffles are roughly the equivalent of flowers in the large scheme of spring trends – not revolutionary. And their recent bastion undoubtedly started even earlier, with Saint Laurent d’Anthony Vaccarello, an equally influential brand trend – and where Kamali worked just before returning to Chloé. (There are no coincidences!)

The steering wheel has now been cemented under the clothing spotlights thanks to the Chloé de Kamali. We are a year from the designer’s first collection and six months from its latest retail floors. This timing lines up with the production cycle of other brands that are inspired by it. In short, fashion is about to be more frilled than ever.

Thursday, a little over a year after his debut in Chloé, the designer presented his fall 2025 collection on the track in Paris. It is less flying, but they are always an important part of the assortment – a kind of element of earthen and familiar which is established as a tool in its aesthetic arsenal, linking its work together. They embellish the sleeves and hems of transparent dresses, accentuate the curve of a short balloon round, cascade skirts, create a form of peplum with lace, line the neckline of a cut blouse and highlight the size of a low background.

This fall 2025 also confirms that the trend cycle continues to operate on time. If we follow these renewals chronologically, the boho-love that we now see fashion was not only inevitable, but also in time. Kamali pushes it forward, modernizing the silhouettes of the time like the adjusted jackets cropped (rendered in pretty pink flowers and rich blue velvet), thick leather belts styled with size, layers of layer declaration on the dresses with pastel lace and fur and fur (for style, not the function). Alexa Chung Walking was only the icing on the cake.

“While I was starting to work on this collection, I felt that before the future is just as important as to honor the past,” wrote Kamali in the notes of the show. “It is a question of continuing to explore, redefine and evolve the state of mind of the Chloé woman.”

The collection, she continued, “reflects how our thoughts and our memories define who we are and how our emotions at different stages of life take place in what we do. I thought of the way we romanianize the past through an intuitive lens, mixing traces of tradition and historical fragments, pieces transmitted through generations, which we formerly loved with what we love today. The memories of the gone times. I was inspired by the contradiction of sumptuous and opulent with the more twinned reality and the instinctive ease of the Chloé woman. “”

It is not only Chloé who turns to the past covered with flywheels: Launchmetrics, which calculates the impact value of the media of a brand or a brand (MIV) on the basis of factors such as press coverage and fame, found that Boho culminated in the quarter of the 2024 quarter, when the mentions of the trend increased by 80% compared to the previous quarter – 16% concerning the previous quarter – 16% Chloé.

On a collective cloakroom, “Boho” research has doubled in 2025 compared to the previous year. The used luxury retailer has an established relationship with Chloé, which is part of his resale program as a service. In this vintage brand assortment, research of the Paddington seminal bag – a lighting on the arm of the celebrities of mid -shops after being introduced in 2005 by the decor of the time – multiplied five times since 2024. It seems that someone has caused Kamali to flow, who brought him back on track 2025 of the fall (transported).

Kamali’s Chloé clothes are a question of freedom of expression and movement, giving you the room to express yourself physically and not feel limited by clothes. Yes, there is a suitable, but it is never tight or binding, following the curves and allowing a little breathing space. The capes act almost like armor, a protective layer that moves in the world with you, with confidence and authentic. It is the antithesis (or an antidote to) the aesthetics of the “boom”, with its energy of corporate boss of the 80s, its acute shoulders and its links. This gives you the permission to let go and live.

People want an escape at the moment, an optimistic balm to live in post-impercivisal moments, where the big titles are frightening and the reality often more frightening. Free and easy -to -blend energy is associated with this aesthetics – more of its comforting familiarity – the offers. And sometimes that’s exactly what we need.