Champagne barrels border the deep and cool cellars of the Domaine de Charles Fourny in Virtues, France. Fourny says that President Trump’s imminent rates have removed his confidence on the American market.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
Vertis, France – Walking in the vineyard of his family, the fifth generation champagne manufacturer, Charles Fourny, gives him hands on Chardonnay vines planted by his grandfather over 70 years ago. For decades, Failny said that her business relied on a vital market: the United States.
In 2024, American consumers imported 26.9 million bottles of champagne, making the United States the largest champagne export market in the world.
Expeditions to the United States represented 18% of Fourny exports last year. But now he wonders if he can continue to depend on the United States
Even with the 90 -day break by President Trump on prices, uncertainty about future trade policies has shaken the long -standing relationship between French Champagne producers and American buyers.
For Fourny, this is not only the net profit. This is a confidence that seems more and more fragile.
“We don’t trust (United States), because we don’t know what’s going to happen,” said Foury. “More and more, you have the impression that you are enemies.”
In recent months, the threats of the Trump administration around European wine prices have changed several times, which makes almost impossible for producers and importers to plan in advance.
Charles Failny says that if exports to the United States have represented 18% of his business in recent years, he is now looking for more “stable” markets, such as Brazil.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
“We talked about 200%, then 20%… Maybe tomorrow it will be 6,000%!” Quartisa jokes, shaking her head.
In March, President Trump launched the idea of ​​slapping prices up to 200% on European wine imports. A few weeks later, on April 2, he reduced this proposal to a tariff of 20%. Then on April 9, the White House announcement A 90 -day stay, temporarily lowering prices on EU’s wine to 10%.
But this break is only temporary. After the 90 -day period, the prices could go up, possibly return to 20%or more.
For Fourny, this unpredictable environment means that it is time to look beyond the American market, looking for stability in places like Brazil.
“We cannot expect a decision,” said Fourny about imminent prices. “We have a business to manage, and we have to act in order to advance our business.”
A fragile ecosystem
The United States has long been the largest importer in champagne, helping to stimulate industry growth.
But on the other side of the Atlantic, American wine importers say they also feel pressure.
“It’s just a horrible kind of self-inflicted injury to American companies,” said Harmon Skurnik, an importer based in New York and a member of the US Wine Trade Alliance board.
In the worst case, he says, wines from abroad could become more expensive and more difficult to find on American shelves. And local American wines cannot simply fill the gap.
“We cannot buy so much American wine, not to mention the fact that these products are simply not as fungible,” says Skurnik. “The French have a term called terroirThis means that wine reflects the place where it comes. A French Chardonnay has nothing like an American Chardonnay. These products are unique. “”
American winegrowers, especially those in California, are also worried. They fear that distributors stretched, weighed down by uncertainty around prices, can have less ability to buy and sell domestic wine, threatening their short -term stability.
The vines grow in the field of Charles Fourny in Virtues, in France. According to Harmon Skurnik, an American wine importer, the unique terroir in the region, which includes factors such as soil, makes its wines irreplaceable.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
Not everyone cries change.
In the heart of Épernay, the capital of the Champagne region, a group of American tourists who came to sip bubbles was quickly expressed.
“We tariff a luxury article,” explains Justin Fishman, a 29 -year -old man from Kansas City, Kan.
“Champagne is not something that everyone needs daily.”
Fishman’s friend Joseph Psyck, who is Kentucky, agrees.
Although his own drink of choice is not exactly affected by prices.
“I’m going to drink what I want at home, whatever happens,” he said, laughing. “Bourbon.”
Back at the Domaine de Fourny à Virtus, he offers a soft-toast toast.
Fourny says he wants Trump to have realized that all of this is more than champagne.
“When you do this with a country, it’s not business … It’s a long-term relationship with people,” he said.
And once this is out, it may not be so easy to bottle it again.
