Molly Picklum: Australian surf star reveals the moment she thought she might die on the ultra-heavy waves to be used at the Olympics – and what saved her life

Surfing in Tahiti may seem like paradise rather than a life-threatening Olympic event, but Australian star Molly Picklum has revealed how she almost died on the break that will be used for the Paris Games.

Surfing is finally included in the Olympic program for the Tokyo 2020 Games, and will return to Paris 2024.

As Paris is not known for its stunning surf spots, competitors will travel to Teahupo’o, Tahiti to compete, as it is French territory.

Teahupo’o could produce two- to four-foot waves during all four days of the Olympics, a game-changer for the 48 men and women competing for medals.

Competitors call it “a veritable gladiatorial pit” because of the dangerous waves caused by swells hitting the rapidly rising Tahitian seabed.

Five surfers died there, including big wave surfer Thierry Vernaudon and local Briece Taerea a week before the 2000 CT event.

Picklum has already taken some tough breaks at Teahupo’o, where this year’s Olympic event will take place.

Australian surfer and world number 3 Molly Picklum almost joined them.

During training, she took on a massive wave at Teahupo’o and received praise on Instagram from seven-time world champion Stephanie Gilmore and big wave record holder Laura Enever.

But a moment of luck prevented her from becoming another victim of the “gladiator pit.”

“I probably didn’t understand this wave before,” she said.

“But I survived the scariest erasure of my life and I’m better for it.” I jumped off a jet ski straight into the biggest barrel I’d ever had at 6 a.m. I was still awake and got completely whipped with four or five more waves on my head.

“I had the skis picking me up every time and that’s when I was very, very grateful, because without them I was probably dead.”

Picklum was almost one of the professional surfers to lose his life battling Teahupo’o

The Australian hopeful is now ready to “dance with the devil” at Teahupo’o for the Olympics.

The 21-year-old from the NSW central coast believes she has an advantage over many rivals, saying she can see their fear when they sit in the queue at Teahupo ‘o, where strong waves break on a shallow reef.

“I think in competition there are two things that happen with women: obviously, the competitiveness of just wanting to win, but also the fear that you can see in a lot of girls,” Picklum said .

“They are not only trying to win, they are also facing internal challenges.

“When I see fear, it makes me a little more confident because I’m a little more comfortable in the situation, so I can focus more on the job at hand, rather than being distracted by fear or being uncomfortable.”

Picklum follows a mental checklist when paddling into dangerous breaks like Teahupo’o.

She used to hate big waves, but now embraces the “intense emotion” that comes with them. “I have a very clear understanding of what I’m getting into every time I’m out there,” Picklum said.

“I make this conscious decision every time that, yes, there is a potential consequence, but also the other side is potentially the most magical experience.”

“I’m willing to dance with the devil a little bit to maybe get that magical moment, and I think that mindset is what keeps me pretty calm, comfortable, and willing to give this a good shot. wave.”