“Dad, we’re doing one of the first Devil Proof tastings,” says winemaker Jesse Katz, a bottle of Malbec in hand. “Want a taste?”
Her father, famed photographer Andy Katz, bursts out laughing. “That’s one of the stupidest questions you’ve ever asked me,” he says, sitting down behind an empty glass at the tasting table.
Wine connoisseurs know the importance of terroir. This concept extends beyond the soil itself to encompass all the environmental factors that affect the development of grapes and the taste of wine. It’s the sun, the wind, the weather, everything.
So when the young winemaker looked for a location to establish Aperture Cellars, he didn’t consider the legendary hills of Napa. Instead, Jesse opted for picturesque Healdsburg.
Climate change is a major contributing factor: Napa’s growing season is getting hotter, drier, and shorter, while Pacific Ocean breezes are bringing cooler temperatures to Healdsburg. Sonoma County also has a greater diversity of soils than any other part of France, including cool, moist clay, ideal for the Bordeaux-style grape varieties it champions.
But just as terroir shapes the flavor, aroma and quality of wine, the concept also serves as a powerful metaphor for this father and son, whose shared experiences and influences have shaped their lives, deepened their appreciation of complexity and cultivated a passion for the art of winemaking.
It’s a journey that began with the winemaker’s father, whose career as a rock-and-roll photographer took him around the world, shooting album covers and capturing moments for the Doobie Brothers, Dan Fogelberg and more. Then Andy turned his lens to the sprawling vineyards of picturesque locales like Tuscany and Bordeaux, capturing some of the most celebrated wineries on the planet. Jesse, then a young teenager, was along for the ride.
These trips, however, planted a seed, providing Jesse with an education I would not have found anywhere else. Amidst the beauty of these vineyard landscapes, Jesse developed a deep respect for wine culture and a curiosity about the intricate art and science of growing grapes.
“It was a real turning point for me,” he says.
Decades later, the highlight of that journey is Aperture Cellars, where Jesse meticulously crafts wine, while Andy’s captivating photographs adorn both the labels and the gallery walls of the tasting room. Currently, Andy is showcasing work from his pandemic project, “A Walk in the Park,” a 60,000-plus mile photographic journey in an RV to capture the stunning beauty of every national park in America.
“I’ve traveled all over the world, but unfortunately very little in the United States,” he said. “But it turns out that all of this majesty is here. It’s been incredibly enriching to explore this country.”
Nearly every aspect of Aperture reflects this deep connection between father and son and their intertwined past. This includes the acclaimed Devil Proof label, which was inspired by the family’s adventures in Cuba, when they were captivated by a local saying: “If you live well and drink well, the devil can’t touch you.”
The first winemaker to be named to the Forbes 30 Under 30 list, a Wine Enthusiast 40 Under 40 Tastemaker, and one of Wine Spectator’s Rising Stars, Jesse has earned a reputation for producing award-winning wines that are embraced by oenophiles around the world. Among them are pro skateboarder Tony Hawk and Justin Timberlake, who commissioned Jesse to create a custom blend for his wedding to Jessica Biel. Jesse also made headlines when a bottle of his Cabernet Sauvignon sold for a record $1 million, the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold.
He remains, however, a very present winemaker, walking through each row of vines with a keen eye. He meticulously chews the skins of the grapes, scrutinizes the seeds and studies the composition of the soil, precisely assessing when to stress the vines and when is the optimal time to harvest. He also lends an ear to the symphony of the cellar, listening intently to the murmurs of yeast fermentation, seeking to understand the progression of the wine’s development.
“That’s the art of it,” Jesse says. “That’s why I believe every bottle here tells a story. And when people can take that story home with them, that’s what we’re here for.”
Details: Aperture Cellars offers wine tastings by reservation only ($50-75 per person) Thursday through Monday at 12291 Old Redwood Highway in Healdsburg. Make reservations and learn more at http://aperture-cellars.com.
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