There’s no doubting the appeal of Sonoma, home to some of California’s most venerable wineries. But the small community of Kenwood, located just 10 miles north, is worth a visit. It’s a destination for wine lovers, spa enthusiasts and outdoor enthusiasts in the heart of the Valley of the Moon.
Native American legends abound in this valley, with tales of mystical and sacred spaces where the moon can be seen rising and setting seven times a night – an illusion aided perhaps by moonlight moving through the jagged peaks of the Mayacamas Mountains, but romantic. nevertheless.
It was also the setting for Jack London’s 1913 novel, “The Valley of the Moon,” whose plot echoes London’s journey from Oakland to this verdant valley. Today it is home to more than 100 wineries, including Kenwood Vineyards, which sources its grapes from the historic London Ranch in nearby Glen Ellen. But there’s plenty to do here besides wine tasting, making it a perfect weekend getaway just an hour or two from the bay.
Beltane Ranch, just south of Kenwood, makes a great base for weekend play. This 100-acre agricultural preserve is a historic property that has been in the Wood/Benward/Krause family for six generations. Today, the beautifully preserved farmhouse, built in 1892, functions as an upscale inn, its modern features and amenities juxtaposed with old features and authentic farmhouse decor.
The property is farmed regeneratively, with an orchard, garden, vineyard, and barnyard inhabitants—chickens, two longhorn cows, horses, and a flock of geese—who greet you along the driveway . This stone wall you see along the drive dates back to the 1870s, when landowner John Drummond reused the stones he had cleared to plant the original vineyard with French cuttings. And the rose garden, raspberry brambles, tennis courts, pond views and plenty of outdoor seating make it a popular spot with brides, as well as the rest of us.
Enjoy breakfast on the long wooden dining table near the library or on your own private balcony. Chef Neil Corsten, formerly of Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn, prepares a four-course dinner with estate wine pairings Thursday through Saturday evenings and a wood-fired dinner Sunday evening. On other evenings, the inn offers cheese, charcuterie and provisions boards, filled with delicious snacks from local producers and the ranch.
Don’t miss the cozy library, where you can read about the rich and amazing history of Beltane Ranch, especially the part about ranch owner Mary Ellen Pleasant, a black self-made millionaire and 19th-century abolitionist.
If you have a dining slot available, make dinner reservations at Golden Bear Station. Chef Joshua Smookler and his wife, Heidi He — whose bustling Sonoma restaurant, Animo, closed in December — opened this charming restaurant soon after in Kenwood.
Take a seat at the white marble bar, where the stools are padded with sheepskin, and let the glow of flickering candles, open kitchen, fun soundtrack and fresh flowers surround you for the dining experience to come. Order the grilled Hen of the Woods mushrooms ($20) with sweet onion-yuzu cream and egg yolk and one of the pizzas ($30-$32), which Smookler spent months perfecting. With the deep coals of the wood oven, these are memorable, deliciously tasty tarts.
Fresh pastas and main courses round out the menu, with dessert anything but an afterthought. A Basque burnt cheesecake ($14) and a brownie sundae for two ($24) with pecan pie pieces, ice cream and hot fudge are among the options. A small selection of wines by the glass highlights Kenwood wine. And your invoice comes with a lovely thank you card, almost like a parting gift – no one ever said that until now.
Another great option for dinner or even just a happy hour is Salt & Stone, which offers a lively ambiance, plenty of outdoor seating, and a seafood-focused menu with plenty of cocktails for restaurant-weary palates. wine. Try the lovely Nuit Étoilée with lychee puree and butterfly pea ice cream.
To achieve some of the region’s culinary feats, enjoy the vast natural setting and oak-dotted hills with a hike at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park which features 25 miles of hiking trails in the Mayacamas Mountains and a seasonal waterfall during superior. of Sonoma Creek.
If all that sounds too active for you, opt for a soak at historic Morton’s Warm Springs, another place to enjoy the scenic Sonoma Creek, with geothermal pools heated to between 84 and 94 degrees, depending on the weather. Psst, the on-site Café 108° serves house-made Meyer lemonade.
And to top off the weekend, treat yourself to the Valley of the Moon massage at the Kenwood Inn & Spa, an iconic property that underwent a series of upgrades and renovations last year. The spa is a tranquil, two-story retreat, with a marble bathtub, automated Japanese toilets, and a serene lounge area that overlooks the pool below. This relaxation will send you home fully grounded and ready for the week ahead.
If you are going to
Beltane Ranch: Rooms start at $344. 11775 Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen; beltranch.com
Ours d’Or station: Open 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and until 8:30 p.m. Sunday at 8445 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; https://goldenbearstation.com.
Salt and stone: Open for brunch on weekends, dinner daily and lunch daily except Wednesday at 9900 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood: saltstonekenwood.com.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: Open daily from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. at 2605 Adobe Canyon Road in Kenwood. Day use fees are $8 to $10 per vehicle; sugarloafpark.org.
Morton Hot Springs: Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday for the summer season at 1651 Warm Springs Road in Glen Ellen. Day-use passes cost $15 to $25 by reservation at mortonswarmsprings.com.
The Kenwood Inn and Spa: The spa is open to daytime guests from Monday to Thursday by reservation. 10400 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood; kenwoodinn.com
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