Explanation, costs, pain and more

A facial treatment (bacial, if you will) to applying Botox to my scalp, there aren’t many beauty treatments I haven’t tried. But the one I always avoided was actually the one I wanted the most: laser hair removal. For what? Because not all lasers are created for skin of color, I was afraid something would go wrong.

However, I was desperate for a permanent solution to the ingrown hairs that were plaguing my bikini area. Whether I shaved, waxed, groomed, or did absolutely nothing, the painful bumps appeared as if invited. And because I’m prone to dark spots after spots (aka post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), ingrown ones always leave behind a hostile reminder of the resulting irritation.

So finally, I took the plunge. I found a trusted practitioner who knows how to perform laser hair removal on all skin tones and hair colors, and who is committed to the treatments. In case you too are worried about what-ifs, I’m here to share everything I’ve learned and what it is. In fact I would like to have laser hair removal.

How laser hair removal works

“Laser hair removal emits a monochromatic beam of light that bypasses the epidermis and deactivates the hair reproduction cycle within the follicle,” explains Christian Karavolas, laser hair removal expert and founder of Romeo & Juliette Laser Hair Removal. It does this by targeting melanin in the hair follicle.

“There are three main types of wavelengths to use depending on skin tone and complexion,” says Karavolas. The first is Alexandrite, a laser used on light skin tones of one to three on the Fitzpatrick scale, which is a classification system based on the amount of melanin present in the skin with types ranging from one to six . Next comes Nd:YAG, reserved for darker skin tones (tones four to six). Finally, there is Diode, which sits in the middle. It is designed for skin tones and intermediate complexions (tones two to four). These lasers are used in a variety of different machines from different manufacturers, so your practitioner should shop around for the best. According to Karavolas, these companies are Cynosure, Candela, Deka, Lutronic and Lumenis.

“We determine which laser and wavelength to use based on the person’s skin tone and complexion at the time of treatment,” says Karavolas. “This could change in future treatments, depending on whether they have been exposed to the sun or are using certain products that may make them more sensitive to laser light.”

How long does laser hair removal last?

“If administered correctly, lasers can offer permanent results on many areas of the body such as the legs, bikini area and underarms,” says Karavolas. “Hormonal changes can cause hair to re-grow in areas such as the face, abdomen and upper arms, meaning additional treatments may be necessary.” He adds that clients with PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) may need more sessions to achieve significant permanent clearance due to high testosterone levels, which cause excessive hair growth.

To ensure the best results, it is essential to return often (approximately every six weeks) and complete all rounds recommended by your practitioner. Even if you feel like your hair is gone before your treatment is finished, stopping early can result in regrowth. In total, “six to 10 treatments may be needed,” says Karavolas.

Is laser hair removal painful?

For me, laser hair removal feels like being snapped with a tiny rubber band that’s on fire. I have heard others describe the sensation as being like a bee sting. The intensity of the pain depends on the laser used and the area of ​​the body where you receive the treatment.

For example, it’s more painful when going over the bones, so when I do my bikini area, the pubic mound is much worse than the labia. In this vein, Karavolas says the most painful places are the shin and lower back. It also hurts a lot when going over ingrown hairs because the skin is inflamed and the laser now has a long strand of hair to target instead of just the follicle.

To monitor pain, a practitioner should check in with you throughout a session to make sure you are okay. And for some relief, many lasers have a cooling component (like a built-in fan) that can help reduce the intensity of the heat. In my experience, squeezing stress balls and taking deep breaths helps a lot.

If you’re unsure whether or not you should get laser hair removal, consider the long-term impact rather than any immediate discomfort. So far, I’ve had three sessions at Roméo & Juliette Laser Hair Removal, and it’s been great. Even after the first session alone, I noticed that the hair that grew back was softer and finer. Because I have very thick hair, I always get ingrown hairs, but they are rare. Although the sessions are painful, the pain is temporary, making it much more manageable than, say, an ingrown hair so inflamed it’s the size of a grape and makes walking painful.

How much does laser hair removal cost

“Typically, lasers cost as little as $110 for the chin and upper lip, around $260 for a basic bikini, and up to $800 for full legs, per session,” says Karavolas.

Who should avoid laser hair removal

“People with white hair should not receive laser,” says Karavolas. “People with certain autoimmune conditions should also be careful. Anyone taking antibiotics or taking medications that may cause photosensitivity should avoid laser or get clearance from their treating physician before using laser.”

Find the right practitioner

Laser hair removal is safe and effective as long as you visit someone who really knows what they’re doing. When looking for a practitioner, Karavolas advises doing your research on the facility’s experience. How many years have they been in business? How many lasers do they have? Are they experienced in working with your skin tone? Does the establishment have good reviews?

Because lasers target melanin, if you have a lot of melanin in your skin or not as much in your hair, it’s especially important to go see a great practitioner. “Treating dark skin is not difficult as long as the right lasers are used,” says Karavolas. “Most providers only use one type of laser and therefore have difficulty treating darker skin tones.” To treat lighter hair, “we have multi-pulse lasers with unique beam profiles that have had notable success with lighter-colored hair,” he explains. It is therefore essential to consult a practitioner who knows the best types of lasers to use in all situations.

“Laser hair removal is an art,” says Karavolas. “If done correctly, it can offer permanent results, so choose your provider carefully.”