By Mark Bitman, The New York Times
Cooking pasta like you would risotto may seem new and trendy. But it’s at least old enough to have been demonstrated to me in Rome in 1976, and I imagine as old as the pasta itself. In this method, liquid is minimized: there is no need for a gallon per pound of pasta. The liquid is gradually added to the pasta, which absorbs it completely and thus retains its starch. This makes the pasta creamy and rich; it also gains the flavor of the broth. You can use just about any shape of pasta you like, but the time will vary depending on the size. This approach may seem more laborious than making pasta the ordinary way. But since the making of the “sauce” is integrated with the cooking of the pasta, it really becomes a unique dish — as interesting as risotto, and even a little faster. Here is a combination of gemelli with mushrooms and chicken to get you started.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, more as needed
- 1 shallot or small onion, chopped
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 2 cups crimini, shiitake or button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
- 1/2 pound cut pasta such as gemelli or penne, or long pasta broken into pieces
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup dry white wine or water
- 3 to 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- 2 boneless chicken thighs, diced
- Chopped fresh parsley, optional
- Freshly grated parmesan, optional
Preparation
1. Put 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the shallot, garlic and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and begin to brown around the edges, about 10 minutes. Add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until shiny and coated in oil, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper, then the wine. Stir and let the liquid bubble.
2. Add broth to skillet about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so. When the liquid is just about evaporated, add more. The mixture should not be soft or dry. Keep the heat on medium and stir frequently.
3. Start tasting the pasta 10 minutes after adding it; you want it tender but with a tiny bit of crunch. When the pasta is about 3-4 minutes from cooking, add the chicken and stir to combine. Continue cooking until the chicken is done – it will be white inside when cut – and the pasta is just how you like it. Taste, adjust the seasoning, garnish with parsley and parmesan if necessary, and serve.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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