Climbers get anchor protection in EXPLORE Act signed by Biden

A proposal from federal agencies that could have severely limited the use of fixed climbing anchors in wilderness areas is now dead, following the passage of legislation signed into law by President Biden last weekend.

Among the provisions of the sweeping EXPLORE Act (an acronym for “Expanding Public Lands Outdoor Recreation Experiences”) were protections for climbers who use fixed anchors for safety reasons. Last year, the National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service issued “proposed guidance” threatening to restrict the use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas, arguing that they were “facilities » prohibited by the Wilderness Act of 1964.

In September, a letter signed by Colorado senators and a dozen others urged the NPS and USFS to reconsider, arguing that the guidelines raised safety concerns. Last month, the NPS announced it was dropping the issue.

Cynthia Hernandez, an NPS spokesperson, made a statement on the matter but declined to provide further details.

“The NPS has paused development of these proposed guidelines,” according to the release. “Park leaders will continue to manage wilderness climbing activities on a park-by-park basis in accordance with applicable laws and policies, including the Wilderness Act.”

With the EXPLORE Act now law, the question is moot.

“We had heard very informally that the park service was going to withdraw its proposed guidance,” said Byron Harvison, advocacy director for the American Alpine Club, based in Golden. “I think they probably still believe their lawyer’s opinion that fixed anchors are prohibited facilities under the Wilderness Act. We’ve always had the position that (the opinion) is incorrect.

Harvison stressed that the American Alpine Club supports regulating fixed anchors as long as federal agencies take a “reasonable” approach.

“Calling fixed anchors ‘prohibited facilities’ was never the intent of the Wilderness Act,” Harvison said. “This is an opportunity to come together, compromise and work together on reasonable regulation of fixed anchors.”

Fixed anchors are attached to climbing routes so climbers can use ropes to protect themselves from potentially fatal falls. They have been used since climbing became a sport over a century ago. Examples of their use can be found on a nearly 1,000-foot vertical section of the east face of Long’s Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. No one can see them except the climbers who use them.

“There are still pitons from the early climbers, in the 1920s and 1930s, that are still in use,” Harvison said. “If Parks and Forest Service guidance had become permanent, even these historic fixed anchors could potentially be removed. We now move on to the process of planning new fixed anchors. The Alpine Club has always supported wilderness and we support the regulation of fixed anchors. We just don’t think it should be based on the principle of prohibition. Today, Congress and the President confirmed it.

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Originally published: January 6, 2025 at 2:09 p.m. MST