Bulgari chooses Mary Katrantzou as its first creative director of accessories

Mary Katrantzou, the London-based fashion designer known for her bold sensitivity to color, has been named the first-ever creative director of Bulgari leather goods and accessories.

While her first collection in the new role will launch in August, the award-winning designer’s relationship with the brand (which celebrated its 75th anniversary last year) dates back to her 2019 couture show (at the Temple of Poseidon in Greece) where the models were wrapped. Bulgari High Jewelry heritage. A capsule collection of “Serpenti Through the Eyes Of” bags followed two years later, which saw the so-called “Queen of Prints” reimagine Bulgari’s iconic snake motif with gold-plated brass handles and closures, as well than a majestic snake’s head. clutches (some hand-painted colored enamel sports scales).

“These bags make you look like you’re wearing jewelry,” she tells Alexa. “You can transform a symbol of Bulgari and transport it – from the past to the present and the future. »

Katrantzou’s second capsule collection debuted last year and featured precision embroidery, inspired by the brand’s fine jewelry and watch collections.

One might assume that Katrantzou was predestined for this role, as her background somewhat mirrors that of the company’s founder, Sotirio Bulgari, who was born in Greece and trained as a goldsmith before establishing his brand in Rome in 1884.

Born in Athens, Katrantzou studied at the Rhode Island School of Design and Central Saint Martins in London, where her graduation exhibition featured optical illusion oversized jewel prints on bonded jersey dresses.

She launched her namesake label after graduating; today, his pieces are in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Clearly not one to rest on his laurels, Katrantzou will remain at the helm of his eponymous brand while taking responsibility for the creative direction of Bulgari’s leather goods and accessories, including the unique collection of high-end bags and clutches. jewelry and glasses.

She doesn’t talk about the upcoming launch, but reveals that she spent quite a bit of time digging through Bulgari’s archives for inspiration.

“You can’t have Bulgari without Serpenti,” she admits. “But there are many other interesting symbols in the Bulgari universe: Tubogas, Diva, Cabochon, Monete and some that no longer exist. There is so much potential and opportunity, it’s just about finding what’s in sync with the times and where we want to go next.