When Brandon Sywassink pulled up to a Lodi winery with trucks full of freshly picked grapes, he thought he was accomplishing a year’s worth of work. It was the culmination of months spent pruning, watering and praying for good weather.
Instead, he was told to throw them away.
“We had a handful of grapes, well, I might say, a handful of truckloads of grapes that were rejected at the winery for low brix,” Sywassink, general manager of Manna Ranch in San Joaquin County, recently told CBS Sacramento (1).
In the world of wine, “Brix” measures sugar content. The higher the number, the richer and more alcoholic the wine. His contract demanded 24 brix. His haul measured 23.9, just missing the target. This 0.1% deficit was enough to wipe out an entire year’s income.
“It hurts a lot just watching this,” he said. “Farmers receive a salary once a year, and we did not receive a salary that day. »
The 25 tons of grapes, worth between $10,000 and $15,000, were thrown away to rot in a nearby field.
The Lodi Winegrape Commission says stories like Sywassink’s are becoming more common as California producers face stricter quality requirements from the big wineries that dominate the industry.
“They are held to very high standards,” said Stuart Spencer, executive director of the commission. “Simultaneously, these same wineries are importing millions of gallons of wine from overseas instead of purchasing these local grapes.”
The combination of strict domestic standards and cheap foreign imports is straining small producers like Sywassink, who rely on a single buyer to make a living.
“They are at the complete mercy of these big companies,” Spencer said. “We need to put in place some kind of code of conduct that makes it an equal partnership because at the moment, producers have no choice. »
Farming has never been an easy business, but it is becoming more and more difficult. The USDA estimates that net farm income fell about 23% in 2024 (2), while costs for inputs like fertilizer (up 37%), seeds (18%), and fuel (32%) have skyrocketed since 2020 (3). Unlike most workers, farmers often rely on a single annual payment, and if a crop fails, there is no second chance until the next season.
The mild summer that softened the Sywassink grapes is part of a growing challenge: climate volatility. It’s not just droughts or wildfires: even subtle changes in humidity, sunlight or precipitation can alter a crop’s chemistry and ruin years of planning.
Many small California producers sell exclusively to one or two wineries under long-term contracts. This relationship provides stability. Until it doesn’t.
The buyer usually decides everything: the harvest window, the delivery schedule and the quality standards. If the product fails to meet these specifications – even by a fraction – the producer can lose the sale and absorb the loss.
In theory, rejected grapes can be sold to juice or vinegar producers, but after transportation and processing costs, the economics often don’t work out.
“It hurts. It hurts,” Sywassink sighed.
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The lesson here isn’t just agricultural – it’s financial. Sywassink’s experience highlights the importance of diversification, preparation and awareness of climate risk. Lessons that apply to anyone managing money or investments.
Don’t rely on just one source of income. Farmers who rely on a single buyer face the same risk as self-employed or small business owners with only one customer. Create multiple sources of income if you can.
Secure your livelihood. Crop insurance through the USDA Risk Management Agency can help offset losses due to bad weather or rejected crops. For other workers, that means disability insurance, income or business insurance, tools that help you stay solvent when life changes.
Investors: note the climate bonus. For anyone investing in agribusiness stocks, agricultural REITs, or crop insurance ETFs, this story is a reminder that climate risk isn’t just about drought or wildfires. Subtle changes in temperature or precipitation timing can reshape entire industries and profit margins.
Reassess regional exposure. As regions like California’s Central Valley face tighter climate tolerances, farmland investors may need to rethink valuations and growth projections. Land that once seemed stable may become riskier as crops struggle to meet contract specifications (4).
Support local supply chains. Consumers can also play a role. When you buy a bottle labeled “Lodi Appellation” or “California Estate Grown,” you’re supporting producers like Sywassink and keeping your money in America’s communities.
Despite losing his crop, Sywassink says he’s not leaving. He plans to try again next year.
“Lodi has given me so much and I want to be able to give back to Lodi,” he said. “That’s why I want to tell people how great so much produce is here, grown here, that we can all buy and support each other.”
In a year when a 0.1% sugar shortage meant financial ruin, his story shows how fragile the balance is for a good harvest – and how resilient America’s small farmers must be.
Because in today’s global wine market, a single truckload of grapes can mean the difference between a good vintage and a devastating loss.
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CBS Sacramento (1); The Agricultural Bureau (2); USDA (3); UC Riverside (4)
This article provides information only and should not be considered advice. It is provided without warranty of any kind.
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