Can collagen supplements help improve skin and soothe joint pain? : NPR

Explorer Ponce de Leon traveled to Florida in search of the fountain of youth. But if you listen to social media influencers, he probably should have headed to the supplement aisle to buy some collagen.

“I’m in my 40s and if I shave I look like I’m in my 20s,” a Tiktok creator who goes by the name Shop By Jake claims in a paid promotion. “People ask me all the time: What do you do for your skin? I take collagen,” he says.

Claims about the health and beauty benefits of collagen supplements are common these days, especially online. But does the evidence back up the hype?

The complaint

Collagen supplements can promote healthier skin, hair, and nails, as well as stronger joints.

The theory

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body. It is found in skin, hair, nails, tendons, ligaments, cartilage and bones. It helps maintain the elasticity and volume of our skin. It is a structural protein, so it gives strength and integrity to our tissues and maintains the strength of joints, among other things. But from our twenties, the quantity and quality of collagen produced by our body decreases.

Factors such as UV rays, smoking and exposure to environmental pollutants can accelerate this decline. But this will happen as we age, which is why many people turn to collagen supplements.

Collagen supplements generally come in two main forms. Hydrolyzed collagen peptides are essentially collagen that has been broken down into smaller amino acid chains to make them easier to absorb. They come from animal sources, such as fish, cattle, pigs or chicken. This is typically what is used in supplements aimed at improving skin and hair, as well as joint health.

“The theory is that if you ingest (a collagen supplement), it goes through the gastrointestinal tract and is absorbed, and then it theoretically goes to places to support or increase collagen production,” says Dr. Lauren Taglia, a board-certified dermatologist with Northwestern Medicine in Naperville, Illinois.

The second main form of supplement is undenatured or native type II collagen, which has not been broken down. It is derived from chickens. Most of the collagen present in cartilage is type II. These types of supplements are thought to promote joint health by prompting the immune system to produce chemical messengers that dampen inflammation.

So what does the research say?

The proof

Let’s start with the skin.

When it comes to skin health, some studies suggest that collagen supplements work.

“Randomized controlled trials have shown that after 8 to 12 weeks of collagen supplementation, things like wrinkle depth, skin elasticity, and skin thickness appear to have improved,” says Dr. Maryanne Makredes Senna, assistant professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School.

A meta-analysis of 19 studies published in 2021 found that, compared to a placebo, people taking collagen supplements had better hydration, skin elasticity, and improvement in wrinkles.

A second meta-analysis was published this year. She looked at 23 randomized controlled trials involving more than 1,400 patients taking collagen supplements for skin conditions, and also found significant improvements in these same areas after 90 days.

But Senna says these results come with a big caveat: The studies that found the biggest improvements were of lower quality and were funded by the supplement industry, she says.

“High-quality studies and non-industry-funded studies have not shown a significant association rate,” says Senna.

Given this, the state of evidence for collagen supplements for skin is mixed at best, says dermatologist Lauren Taglia. “As physician-scientists, we would like to see studies done on a large scale and independently,” she says.

It’s a similar story when it comes to collagen supplements for joint health. Studies have shown benefits, for example in reducing pain caused by osteoarthritis.

But again, much of the research is funded by industry, so it can be difficult to disentangle potential biases, says Dr. David Felson, an osteoarthritis researcher and professor at Boston University.

A systematic review found that most studies on collagen supplements for treating rheumatoid arthritis and osteoarthritis were of too poor quality to determine whether they were actually helpful. Some studies included in this review reported adverse effects, such as exacerbation of symptoms.

“When it comes to collagen, I don’t know what the right answer is,” says Felson. This could potentially help, but “there are no large-scale studies here and there need to be some,” he says.

The essentials

If you’re looking for healthier skin, collagen supplements “could be helpful, but there isn’t a lot of solid evidence to support them at this point,” Taglia says.

Your best bet is to focus on things that have solid evidence behind them, says Dr. Maya Jonas, assistant professor of dermatology at Ohio State University. This includes wearing sunscreen and other sun protection and using vitamin A products like retinol, which has been clinically shown to boost collagen production. Keeping your skin hydrated is also important.

Lifestyle factors also matter, says Jonas. She recommends a diet rich in fruits and vegetables, which provide antioxidants like vitamin C, as well as nuts and seeds, which are good sources of zinc and copper and help support collagen production.

“We always talk about diet, making sure patients follow a healthy, balanced Mediterranean diet, avoid alcohol, don’t smoke, and avoid second-hand smoke,” says Jonas.

And get enough sleep and exercise, Senna adds. Poor sleep and stress can take a toll on the skin, while exercise can improve blood flow to the skin and help counteract the loss of skin elasticity and thickness associated with aging.

It is not only good for the skin, but also for overall health.